How to Install Siding Sheets to Your Dollhouse

While some dollhouse kits include pre-milled siding, most scratch built and various other kits do not. Dollhouses built from scratch or kits using smooth cabinet grade plywood or luan plywood provide the builder with various options to finish the exterior walls according to their preference. One of the most common and favorite finishing option includes pre-milled siding sheets. Siding sheets typically measure approximately 3-1/2" high by 24" wide by 1/16" thick with some available in 3" heights and 12" or 36" length options. The siding sheets come in a variety of profiles including 1/2" lapped, 1/2" and 3/8" beaded, 3/8" lapped, 1/4" lapped, 3/16" lapped, and 1/8" lapped. The term "lapped" refers to the spacing of each course (or board width) on the siding sheet.

In one-inch (1:12) scale, the lap measurement for a 1/2" board width is equivalent to a 6" full size board and is a frequent size selected. Alternatively, a 3/8" board width (4-1/2" full size) is very typical of many older houses while a 1/4" board width can be authentic for one-inch scale houses. However, the 1/4" width is more commonly used on 1/2" (1:24) scale houses. A board width of 1/8" is best suited for 1/4" scale houses and makes a nice shutter slat material in one-inch scale. A 3/16" board width is also available and is generally used on half-inch (1:24) scale houses or for a wider shutter in one-inch (1:12) scale.

The exception would be inside corners such as an "L" shaped house or one with extensions where siding edges meet. The siding may be simply butted together, or a 1/8" x 1/8" stripwood may be placed in the inside corner to receive the butt ends of siding from both walls, as is commonly done on real houses. The stripwood makes a clean joining and also helps to hide any mismatch of siding. This particular trim at inside corners is painted the same color as the siding while other trim boards are usually a contrasting color. Typically, exterior corners are covered with angle trims for a finished look.

Each siding sheet usually has a recessed cut at the bottom edge that creates a small lip to sit over the siding sheet below. This lip makes a good joint and helps avoid (or diminish) the development of a visible crack or gap should the siding pieces shrink at some point. A word of caution regarding the lip: do not allow glue to extend above the top edge or below the bottom edge of the siding sheets. This excess glue will prohibit a good clean connection between the adjoining sheets. Since the siding installation should be started at the bottom edge of the dollhouse, the recess on the very bottom piece should be filled with a piece of square stripwood, such as MW4022, making the bottom edge less vulnerable to damage. See images below.

   

When installing siding sheets on your dollhouse, do not butt sheets end-to-end, rather make certain you have several sheets on hand that are longer than your dollhouse is wide so you can avoid very unrealistic and noticeable "seams." It is preferable to install siding sheets from end to end of the dollhouse (then cut out doors and windows), however, you can also place sheets between doors and windows to avoid any seams. Hold (or temporarily tape) your siding sheet in place then using a pencil mark any doors and windows (from inside the dollhouse) to indicate your cutting lines. Remove the sheet and cut along the pencil lines with your knife. It is usually easier to first cut along the vertical lines then across the horizontal lines. This is especially true when a siding sheet covers only part of the door or window (usually top or bottom). Always test fit to confirm that your doors and window frames are easily inserted into place before attaching the siding. TIP: If your doors and windows are already installed, try to gently remove them to make it easier to install your siding sheets. Usually, with a little pressure, a metal putty knife, and a hair dryer to heat the putty knife and glue used on the doors and windows, they should come away from the dollhouse. If that is not an option, you will need to be more diligent when cutting the siding sheets to fit around the frames.

While there is no right or wrong way to cut and install the siding sheets, some prefer cutting and numbering all sheets then installing them bottom to top. Others prefer cutting and installing a few sheets at a time. The second option is more likely to avoid confusion and errors. We recommend cutting pieces fairly accurate but most shortfalls can be covered with door or window casing and edge trims.

  

TIP: Cutting the sheets may be done with various saws, a utility or a hobby-craft knife. When using a knife several passes (scoring) are made for each cut rather than trying to cut through with the first cut.  

When siding must be cut on an angle, such as under the roof at the gable ends or on dormers, create a template of the area from scrap material (or paper) and transfer the outline onto your siding sheet. Remember, any rough edges can be covered with trim stock for a finished look. If your dollhouse has an attached porch you may need to trim off some of the bottom of the siding sheet, so plan according.  It may not be the best place to install your first sheet of siding. 

  

When you are ready to glue the siding sheets in place remember to use a non-water base adhesive. Water based glues will most likely cause the siding to warp. Consider Quick Grip, Multi-Grip, or MagnaTac for this purpose. You can find all these glues here if you wish to compare them. These are all solvent based adhesives and are very good for attaching siding to plywood.

Apply a bead of glue along all of the edges plus a zig-zag bead in the middle (see illustration at left). After positioning the siding, lift the sheet slightly to allow air to reach the flattened glue on both surfaces then press the siding sheet back into place. While the adhesives grip quickly and permanently, you may notice the need to press and hold the sheet for a couple minutes to help it keep good, tight contact with the plywood. Some installers actually allow the solvent based adhesives the dry a bit (until when touched no glue strings pull from either the siding or the plywood) then press in place and firmly rub along the siding until flat and tight. If this is your first installation, you might consider testing on scrap wood before proceeding.

A major point of discussion when installing sheet siding is when and how to paint the siding. As in most projects, you will get several different answers, or opinions. But the majority of dollhouse builders who have worked with pre-milled siding sheets agree that it is best to paint after the siding has been properly installed. Some will argue that the siding sheets will warp if not painted on both sides before installation, but most agree that with the proper application and adequate adhesive, the sheets will not warp. The key is to be generous with your glue, making certain that all edges are firmly attached, that you have a fair amount of adhesive spread across the main body of each sheet, and that you have used a non-water base adhesive (solvent base only).

When painting your dollhouse be certain to apply 2-3 thin coats (beginning with a latex primer/sealer base). Remember thin coats so you do not lose definition. Lightly sand each course of siding following the direction of the laps between each coat. Consider using an emery board or finishing grit sandpaper that you have folded in half for ease of holding and sanding along the laps. Avoid sanding against the grain or again you will lose the definition of the siding.

Create Your Own Miniature Paintings

A friend of mine told me about this new free software. Imagine the fun you can have creating your own miniature paintings for your dollhouse or room box. Using this software you can convert pictures of individuals, groups and objects into a variety of paintings. Check out the video below for a quick look at what you can do with Fotosketcher. Add a frame, and you have your own special finishing touch!




I've just starting "creating" with Fotosketcher myself and have been having lots of fun. You can visit Fotosketcher.com or fotosketcher.blogspot.com to learn more for yourself.

Micro Printing for Miniatures

I just used a hint I'd heard about some time ago and wanted to share.

Using your word processing program set your font to the smallest size typeface. Type your text. Highlight (or select) the text. Hold the Ctrl (PC) Command (Mac) key as you hit the left square bracket [ key five times. This creates the smallest typeset for use in tiny letters, books, greeting cards etc. that can be read with a magnifying glass.

If you want to use colors blue shows up better than red.

Pepita MT makes a nice script, which seems more readable than some of the other script fonts. But experiment to find the one you like best.

After I had typed the text, highlighted the text, and used the left square bracket [ key to make it smaller, I found could use the right square bracket key ] to make it larger and find the size that worked best for my use. The whole document was then set for the size font I chose. I used the zoom option (to 200%) to read and/or type more.

The IllumiKnife

Miniaturists are always on the look out for tools to make building and decorating dollhouses a little easier. I have found one such tool that will aid in trimming wallpaper around doors and windows in those dark tight spaces often found in dollhouse rooms.

As a dollhouse shop owner, I also do build and remodel dollhouses for customers. Occasionally, visitors to the shop will peak into my workshop and watch the process. Recently, I was approached by one of the designers of this tool after he noticed me struggling with a light and a knife trying to trim and remove excess wallpaper from a deep dark dollhouse room.

The Illumiknife is the perfect tool for precision cuts! This lighted utility craft knife features LED technology with a 40-year lamp life, uses industry standard blades, and lights with a touch (no switches or buttons). Made in the USA. Knife comes complete with one standard blade and 1 replaceable battery. Perfect for trimming wallpaper and getting into those hard to reach and see dollhouse corners where you need to make a clean cut!

I'm impressed with this tool, however, we have lost contact with the manufacturer and have been unable to find them for some time.  Should you locate the manufacturer, please let me know!

Novalyte Flicker Module

The Novalyte flicker module is for use with 12-volt dollhouse wiring either AC or DC and will provide a random flicker to your lights (traditional or LED) and fireplace "flames."

Looking at the Novalyte flicker module you can see that that it is a circuit board with devices on it. The ones you will be using are the green connectors and the blue timing device. There are other things on the board, which you will not need to be concerned with to make your module work. The row of four green connectors is where the wires from the lights themselves go. Each of the connectors has a pair of "windows" on the side, which is closed by the screws above them. The wires from the light are inserted there after having been stripped of insulation and are clamped down by screwing the screw clockwise. It does not matter which wire from your light goes in which side of the connector. Each connector can hold more than one pair. The fifth connector is where the power wire goes. Again, it does not matter which wire is in which side.

The blue device controls the amount of flicker from raging if the wheel is all the way to the left to shimmer all the way to the right. The change in the rate is achieved with the use of a small screwdriver.

All devises connected to the module flicker at the same rate, but because the flicker is random they do not flicker in unison. It's like a choir at the same intensity level while each individual voice may be singing different notes and rhythm.

Before you install the module you will need to decide where you want to hide it. Unless you remove or add a light or fireplace fixture you will not need access to the module. The module does require some space around it for heat dissipation.

To see the module in action, click the arrow on the video below.

Quick and Easy Tip!

Miniaturists are always in search of new and unique ways to finish some aspect of their dollhouse or roombox. Here's a quick and easy way to stain dollhouse trim, such as baseboards, casings and crown or cove moldings...use a furniture marking pen (or touch-up marker) available at your local hardware or home improvement store. You might even have a few at home that you have used for quick repairs to dents, nicks, and dings to your favorite real life furniture. Either way, they can serve double duty!

Asphalt Shingles for Your Dollhouse

NOTE:  The following text was originally written when a product called "What's Next" shingles were available.  At this time, this particular brand of dollhouse miniature shingles is not available.  A new product by Alessio Miniatures is currently available, but these shingles are not manufactured using the same method, so references to "15 pound tar paper" does not apply.  Also, Alessio Miniatures asphalt shingles are NOT intended for outdoor use.  The installation method described below is still very much applicable.  Should you have any questions, please contact me.

First, paint the edges of the roof the color of the shingles. You might also consider installing copper flashing.

Second, measure the first piece of shingle so that the slits in the material come out even on the left and right edges of the roof. Cut this piece off the roll. Now measure the second piece. This second piece is measured so the silt is centered between two slits on the first row. Cut this off. Use these pieces as patterns for cutting the rest. (NOTE: You have two kinds of rows, odds and evens.)

Third, make sure slits line up correctly from strip to strip. If the slits in one strip do not line up with the slits in the other strips, lay the shorter ones on the table and run your fingers along the strip to flatten and stretch it until it matches the other strips.

Fourth, glue the first strip along the edge of the roof, overhanging the roof by 1/16" or 1/8" (depending on scale). (Optional: Glue the first strip with slits facing the peak of the roof, then glue the second strip on top of the first strip with slits facing down and centered between the slits in the first row. This creates a weather tight seal on the roof edge similar to a real roof.) From the bottom edge of the shingle, Mark of dots every ¼" or ½" (depending on scale) to the roof peak on the left and right sides of the roof. With pencil and ruler, join the dots to make parallel lines. Measure accurately. This keeps shingle rows even going up the roof.


Fifth, glue rows up the roof, lining up the back of the shingles with parallel lines. Apply glue to both the spine of the strip and the individual tabs. If using staples, staple above slits, 1" to 2" from the edges, then 4" between staples. Cut uppermost row to fit peak. Cap the roof with separate shingles cut from the strip.


What kind of glue can I use? We recommend a petroleum based glue because this is a tar paper product. Construction adhesive like Liquid Nails®, lacquer based glue like Goop®, or Multi-Grip work equally well. Staples can also be used. White or wood glues are not recommended because they tend to fail after prolonged contact with the tar paper.

What are the shingles made from? Basically it is made from fifteen pound asphalt roofing paper, similar to what is probably on your own roof. The granules are made from various recycled materials, sized to scale and glued to the tar paper.

Can they be used outside? Yes, the shingles can be used for many projects outdoors. We do recommend that you protect the shingles with a coating of satin finish polyurethane paint, (either spray or brush) especially on the textured shingles. Both ultraviolet light and harsh weather will damage the color or granules. The painted shingles or plain shingles do not need this protection.

Will the color fade? Some of the shingle colors are not colorfast and ultraviolet light will fade the base color. Canyon Red and Spruce Green are the colors that fade most. Fluorescent lights do give off ultraviolet light and will cause fading. The rest of the line does hold up very well.

How many shingles are in each package? Each package will cover about one square foot (three square centimeters).

How many packages do I need? Measure the square area you are covering (length X width = square inches or centimeters) then divide by 144 for inches or 9 for centimeters and this number is how many packages you will need. If you have valleys, dormers or complex roof shapes the angular cutting creates some waste that is unusable and will need more than a simple roof, so plan accordingly.

What do I do if they curl or wrinkle? Tar paper is actually asphalt saturated felt paper and will stretch or shrink when the humidity changes drastically. To get the shingles to relax and lay flat again use a damp towel and weight, place the damp towel onto the shingles and weight them down for about 30 minutes, then remove the weight and towel and allow to dry.

Asphalt shingles by Alessio Miniatures can be purchased at Jeepers Dollhouse Miniatures.