Wiring Outside the Box

Seems to be a trend with the bulk of my writing focused on wiring, but it is always an issue and generates the greatest number of questions. This past month I have encountered two very different yet similar wiring situations, which lead me to "wiring outside the box." The basic similarity between the two houses is that they are both front-opening.

The first house is constructed of a very hard, dense composite material that was all but impossible to penetrate with the brads and eyelets. Compounded by the sizes of the rooms (including low ceilings) and finished interior, I thought I would never be able to complete the task. Did I mention that the house was screwed together rather than nailed and glued? That provided another issue that I'll explain later. I spoke with the owners and they agreed that I could wire the house like I would any other, and they would just wallpaper and carpet over the already finished interior.

I thought I would save them some time and expense by running the tapewire lower than I normally do so that they could cover most of it with tall baseboard. Good idea in theory, but awful in reality. The density of the wood, and apparent slickness of the finishes resulted in numerous slips and bends. Never a good thing for brass brads or pound-in receptacles. Yes, I did drill pilot holes for the pound-in receptacles first, but in this case, it didn't matter. If I drilled the hole too small the brass fitting just broke off when I tried to hammer it in place. If I drilled the hole to large, the contact was compromised. I didn't have a bit sized in between. Furthermore, I couldn't get a good angle for drilling or nailing since the installation point was only about 1/2" from the floor. In addition to the density and slippage, I found a issue of "bounce" to be a problem. That is probably not exactly the term, but with dollhouses assembled using glue and nails, I don't generally feel the walls move as I hammer. As for the brads, they just bent every time. Didn't matter what approach or tool I used, the brads were not the answer.

Finally, I resorted to installing large eyelets in various spots along in the tapewire. This way I was able to first drill the pilot hole and then install the eyelets. Even this method took some finessing, but proved to be the answer in the end. I did have one lamp to install that I connected from the outside of the back of the house. I drilled a hole where it would be placed, threaded the wire to the outside, installed two small brads, wrapped the wires around the brads, then gingerly tapped the brads further into the wood. Finally, I applied a piece of Scotch tape over the connection. That was by far the easiest of all installations in the house. I could easily reach the connection spot and the rear wall of the house was supported by the interior walls and floors making hammering easier. Only then did it occur to me that I should have wired the house from the outside by laying out the tape wire along the back like a circuit board then drilling holes and running the fixture wiring outside.

The end result would be the same. Since it was so difficult to install the receptacles and even the eyelets (although they provided slightly easier), the lamps are now permanently connected to whatever spots I was able to install. The same could have been accomplished by wiring on the outside. Actually, I could have avoided all the tapewire on the inside of the house and the owner's house would not need to be wallpapered. Carpeting would have been the only requirement since any way I installed the ceiling fixtures, tape or wires would need to cross the floors to their connection points.

This brings me to the final issue with wiring this particular house. As I mentioned previously, the ceiling heights were slightly lower than a typical 1" scale dollhouse. After I installed one of the larger ceiling fixtures, we noticed that it hung far too low for the house. It now needs to be shortened almost to the point of removing all of the chain. My point here is to double check ceiling and fixture heights be confirm that they do indeed fit before installation. You will save yourself the added work after installation.

As I mentioned earlier, I had a second house with similar yet slightly different issues. Its similarities include finishes (such as permanently affixed doors and decorative molding) and front opening design. Its differences include size and construction materials. This particular house has extremely high ceilings for a 1" scale house and several extremely small rooms. Unfortunately, the architect/builder did not properly design the house, which now has 14" ceilings, but several rooms as small as hallways (less than 5" wide) running over 12" deep. Fortunately, it is constructed of plywood using generous amounts of glue and nails.

This house arrived for wiring during my struggle with the first house. Again, I first thought about this house like I would most typical wiring jobs. Then I really studied the house, considering its characteristics and challenges. After several discussions with the owner, we agreed that I would wire the house on the outside back like a circuit board. The wiring would not be obvious and I could avoid many issues of access. Thankfully, it is plywood, making drilling and nailing much easier. I can install brads, eyelets, or receptacles without bending or breakage. Our only real challenge here is the unusual room sizes and appropriate lamp sizes.

I have said this many times before: plan your layout, search for the challenges and obstacles before you begin, test the wood/finishes to how receptive it is to brads, eyelets and receptacles, and now I add "think outside the box" at least for front opening houses.

Wallpapering Reminders

Recently, while working with customers who are wallpapering their dollhouses, I was reminded of a couple things I thought I should share with you. The bottom line is "prepare and be prepared."

In the first instance, my customer had decided to install wallpaper on a wall she had previously intended to paint. After a change of heart, she decided she wanted it papered with the same paper as she had on the other two walls. When the paper we ordered arrived we discovered to our dismay that the color (or dye lot) had changed significantly. We double checked the manufacturer's numbers and it was the same paper, but the tones and hues were distinctly different. A word to the wise: when purchasing wallpaper, acquire enough paper to finish an entire room.

In the second instance, a customer had completely finished the entire dollhouse. Walls were papered, carpeting and hardwood floors installed. Since he intended to sell the dollhouse, he was giving it a once over looking for imperfections or problems. As he inspected the house, he discovered smudges and markings on a wall in one room. No amount of erasing or cleaning would remove the damage. Fortunately, in this instance we were able to perfectly match the wallpaper. While this case ended with acceptable results, had he sealed the paper before installing it, he may have avoided the need to remove and re-install the wallpaper. The word of caution here is to take the time to seal the wallpaper (front and back) with a good acrylic spray sealer. The sealer may not eliminate all types of smudges or scratches, but it will help keep down the number of potential problems.

In conclusion, buy enough wallpaper at the same time to finish an entire room. It is also advisable to have at least one extra sheet for potential future repairs. Protect your wallpaper from fading and smudges by applying a good acrylic spray sealer to both sides of the paper before installation.

Carpet (Re)installation

Occasionally I encounter a situation with a customer that I haven't personally faced with my own dollhouses. I was recently asked to make some repairs on a dollhouse that involved removing carpeting and replacing burned out lights. Lamp and bulb replacement is something that I've done many times; however, while some lamps can be somewhat challenging, in the case of this particular house, the lights were not the issue...it was the carpeting!

The dollhouse was originally constructed some 20 years ago and while beautifully done, it was beginning to show its age. The owner who has lost some dexterity in her hands could no longer do some of the repairs necessary and had asked if I would replace the creme colored carpeting on the first floor living room since I was replacing lamps. I agreed to try even though I have never had to replace carpeting in one of my dollhouses. She also explained that at one point someone had replaced the carpet for her, but she was unhappy with the results. Upon inspection of the carpet, I could see why. The carpet did not properly fit the room and was rather lumpy where generous spots of glue had been used to adhere the carpet to the floor.

Initially, I wasn't even sure how I was going to remove the unsightly carpet, but figured we had nothing to lose if it were damaged during the process. I pried up a corner of the carpet and began pulling and pealing carefully so as not to damage the wallpaper or baseboard. Fortunately, MOST of the carpet came up without much problem; however wherever the glue was thickest, the clumps of remaining carpet fibers were firmly attached. I surveyed the remnants wondering what would be the best approach to complete the removal process. I correctly assumed that a water-based glue had been used and knew that water could break down most craft type glues. Starting with a small area near the edge of the dollhouse, I applied a small amount of water with a paint brush to the little patch of carpet fibers. I allowed the water the soak into the area for a few minutes before I began scraping around the edges of the patch with a putty knife. To my relief, the fibers began to lift. This process took considerable time since I worked on one area at a time, first dampening then scraping. With each area, I allowed the water to soften the glue then scraped the fibers away before the spot dried. The areas along the baseboard proved most challenging since I didn't want to damage the baseboard. Fortunately, the glue was not as thick at these points and I carefully continued dampening and scraping until all the fibers were removed. The final step in the removal process was a good sanding to smooth out the floor to avoid any bumps or lumps under the new carpet.

Finally, I was ready to measure and install the new carpeting. Since most rooms in dollhouses (and real homes) are rarely perfectly square, I always make a template of the floor using copy paper, cutting and taping together pieces until I have the exact layout of the room. Once I'm happy with the template I've created, I transfer the pattern to the carpet by tracing it with pencil on the back of the carpet. I always double check to be sure that I've placed the template upside down on the back of the carpet.

Now it occurred to me that I had two installation options: craft glue or Stick'M adhesive. I admit I have never used glue to install carpeting, but this situation has made me think about the options available. I know that once carpet (or flooring sheets) is installed with Stick'M, it is permanently in place. From this experience, I have learned that with patience, carpet that has been glued down with a white (or craft) glue can be removed following the steps I have outlined above.

In conclusion, I would suggest a couple things regarding carpet installed with craft glue. Think ahead when installing the carpet. Consider what you may need to do if you have to remove the carpeting. Apply a smooth thin layer of glue using a paint brush or spread it out with your fingers. Don't allow the glue to form little mounds. Those mounds can look like mountains under your carpet. The thicker the glue, the more difficult it will be to remove the carpet (or fibers). It is better to spread the glue around the outside edge of the dollhouse and not too close to the interior walls. Use the less is better theory. You don't need much glue to adhere the carpet. If you find you need to remove the carpeting at a later date, be frugel with the amount of water you use, be patient when pulling up the carpet, and be careful with the putty knife.

I plan to experiment on removing carpet that has been installed with Stick'M or a non-water-base glue. I suspect the use of heat may be necessary. I'll post my results as soon as I try my experiment.

As always, I would like to hear from you. Do you have any suggestions? Questions?

Dollhouses...a History

While I do not spend a lot of time surfing the Internet, I do research different topics and articles related to dollhouse miniatures. I believe hands-on is the best way to learn any craft, but I find the history of miniatures to be an interesting topic. During a research surfing expedition, I found this delightfully designed site about dollhouse history that I thought I'd share with you. Enjoy!

Wiring with Adapters

Although I prefer installing most ceiling fixtures from the floor above and sconces from the wall behind, there are many times when the use of an adapter is advantageous and preferred. Those situations include:

• difficult or impossible access to the floor above or wall behind;
• use of non-replaceable or difficult to replace light bulbs;
• frequent or long-distance moving;
• desire to change fixtures periodically;

When installing a ceiling fixture after the floor above has been finished (i.e., stained and varnished, tiled, shingled, or carpeted), the use of an adapter will eliminate the need to remove and/or re-install flooring. Similarly, should you want to install a sconce on an exterior wall using an adapter is the easier method. Granted, you can hardwire through your wall finish and wrap the excess wire in the space behind the sconce, but it is often difficult to access the wall. This is particularly true when working in a back opening house and trying to install a sconce on the wall at the front of the house.

While they are becoming less available, there are still a variety of fixtures with non-replaceable light bulbs. Once the bulbs burn out, the entire fixture must be replaced. If you must use this type fixture, then you should use an adapter or you will need to remove whatever finish is on the floor above or wall behind when you must replace the burned out fixture. Similarly, some fixtures are equipped with replaceable bulbs that are difficult to remove and re-install. If you plan to install that type fixture in a room deep within the house you may find bulb replacement and re-installation nearly impossible. Use of an adapter will allow you to remove the fixture and change the bulbs more easily.

If your job or career requires frequent moves or if you anticipate that you may be required to move the dollhouse long distances, adapters will provide you the opportunity to remove the fixtures for safe transport. Hardwired fixtures suffer from the bumps and jarring movement of transit; fixtures with adapters can be safely stored and re-installed at the new destination. Even if steps have been made to try to protect the fixtures, some damage may still occur.

Occasionally, dollhouse owners find a fixture that they prefer over a previously installed unit or decide to redecorate a room where the old fixture no-longer fits the decor. Fixtures with adapters can be easily replaced without affecting the room above or to the side.

Keep in mind that most fixtures can be hardwired through wall or ceiling finishes with the excess wires tucked into the canopy or mounting unit of the fixture. In these instances, you are required to shorten the wire so it can be accommodated by the canopy or mounting unit. This application can be difficult when working in tight spaces with the shortened wires.

On the down-side, adapters require attachment to the light fixture. Be prepared to work with the fine wires and small screws and jeweler screwdrivers. If your dexterity or vision is compromised, you may find this a very challenging undertaking. Secondly, adapters do not work with all types of fixtures. If you are planning to install a particular fixture using adapters make certain they are compatible before cutting fixture wires. I'll address selecting and attaching adapters in another post.

The Wonderful World of Miniatures

Miniatures is the most fascinating hobby/art to which we have ever been exposed! It is creative, challenging, entertaining, fulfilling, and fun! We at Jeepers Dollhouse Miniatures are committed to assisting those people who wish to become involved with miniatures, whether it is in obtaining a dollhouse for a child for play and creative learning or for an adult who is interested in miniatures as a hobby or collector of fine pieces of miniature art. To that end, we will be offering a few thoughts to keep in mind as you get started.

Fundamental Facts

Basic Styles

There are two basic styles of houses: Front Opening with walls on all four sides and at least one hinged wall; and the Traditional Back Opening, which has three walls with access at the back of the house. The back open style can be placed on a turntable if desired. Both styles have advantages and personal preference will guide your choice. And, of course, there are period design styles in each category! When choosing between a front or back opening model, keep in mind who will play with the dollhouse. Also, does the family have pets? Cats in particular love to crawl up into cosy little spaces like those offered in a dollhouse.

Construction Materials

Dollhouses can be made from a variety of woods. The less expensive houses tend to be made from thin woods or MDF. Better quality houses are generally made from plywood or hardwoods. The type of wood relates directly to durability and ease of construction. Beware that there are many types of dollhouses on the market. Some are designed to challenge one’s creativity. Others are intended for display only. But our favorites are those that can provide years of playful enjoyment for young and old alike. At Jeepers Miniatures you will find homes that we have found to be the most durable and playable. We look for kits that are the easiest to assemble. Because we personally love this hobby and wish to share our pleasure with others, we try to offer houses and kits that will bring you and your family the most enjoyment.When you purchase a house or kit from Jeepers Miniatures that is the beginning of a hopefully long-term relationship. We start by giving you free information sheets about your house and will continue to provide you with helpful information guides as you purchase electrical, shingling, and wallpapering supplies. This kind of service, you will find only at a full-service miniatures shop like Jeepers.

Commonly Asked Questions

Should I purchase a kit or a fully assembled dollhouse? The “right” choice depends on what best fits your needs. Some find great enjoyment from assembling a kit, while others aren’t interested in that phase, but are more interested in decorating the house. Fully assembled houses are only slightly more costly and may well be worth the peace of mind. In either case, you have ample opportunity to customize your house—from color choices to additions to interiors and exterior decorating styles.

Are there any other choices? Absolutely! Structures come in many forms: barns, gazeboes, shops, lighthouses, room boxes, and vignettes, to name a few.

What do I do After I've Selected My Dollhouse?

Choose a Good Work Space

I hope that you have selected a good place to work on your dollhouse (kit or assembled shell). You will better enjoy your project and are more likely to complete your dollhouse if you have a designated organized workspace with good lighting. A large table with room for the shell and your tools is the best arrangement. I have found that a table that is basically twice the size of the base of the dollhouse works best. A couple boxes can be arranged beneath the table to house the kit parts, supplies, and your tools.

Identify Kit Components

The next step depends entirely on whether you chose a kit or an assembled house. If you chose a kit, the VERY first thing you should do is take an inventory of the components included in the kit.

Check each piece against the part list. You might even take it one step further and identify each piece with the description provided by the manufacturer. Look over each piece to identify any damage or potential problems. We've had one or two incidents where pieces weren't cut according to the specifications. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to measure the pieces to be certain that they match the dimensions provided.

If you find that pieces are missing, damaged, or not the size as described, you should immediately contact the manufacturer. We would certainly be happy to help you get the replacement part, but you can save time and avoid potential problems if you speak directly to the manufacturer. Ocassionally, they require additional information relative to the part (aside from the description) such as dimensions.

We have had a few instances where folks purchased a DuraCraft dollhouse several years ago and for whatever reason are just getting to building them now. Unfortunately, that particular manufacturer is no longer in business and it is difficult to get the missing or damaged parts. Had they identified and contacted the manufacturer when they originally purchased the dollhouse kit, they would have been able to acquire the replacement parts. As it is now, we are working with individuals to create alternative replacement pieces. Readers are cautioned about purchasing DuraCraft dollhouses from the Internet since if they do have parts issues there is no one to help resolve them.

Collect all Necessary Tools and Equipment

Study the list of required tools and equipment. It is much better to have everything at hand to avoid searching for them while you are building. Generally, you will only require typical household tools, but it is better to have them handy rather than stored in the basement or garage when you're working elsewhere in the house.

Ceiling Fixture Installation

Today's question involved installing a ceiling fixture in a dollhouse living room. Ask any miniaturist how and you'll probably get a different answer from each one. I will even give you a different suggestion depending on the house, room location in the house, degree of finish (or preferred finish), etc. I generally adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle. Keeping it simple is usually the best method. I also prefer to use tapewire. Loved by some (including me) despised by others. Another discussion another day.

Generally speaking, I prefer to install ceiling fixtures through the ceiling to the floor above. I know, that doesn't always work on the top floor, but that isn't the issue today. We'll save that discussion for another time. Assuming the room in question is on a level (first, second, or third floor) with an unfinished floor above, I suggest the following:

• Plan your wiring layout before you do any interior finishing. This is critical, unless you don't mind tearing up carpeting or re-installing your wood floors. Install the tapewire throughout the house.
  
• Make certain that the tapewire across the floor is within reach of the point at which you will install the ceiling fixture. You do not necessarily want the tapewire to run right over the point where the ceiling fixture will be installed. I normally run the tapewire across the floor several inches from the center of the room. Wires from ceiling fixtures are generally about 8" long, but leave enough room for error. Better to have excess wire than a shortage. The excess wire can be taped down. If you cut the fixture wire too short then have problems removing the insulation, you run the risk of not having enough wire to reach the tapewire. The delicate wire can break and you might need to recut the wire several times until you are successful. Additionally, it is easier to work with longer lengths of wire.
  
• Turn off any power to the dollhouse.
  
• I prefer to apply ceiling/wallpaper to my ceilings. Although many people are perfectly content with painting their ceilings, I like the look of ceiling papers, particularly the slightly textured type that resembles plaster or "popcorn" finishes. Once the paper has been installed and is completely dry, you are ready for the next step.
  
• Determine exactly where you would like to position the ceiling fixture.
  
• Once you have determined the point for placement of the fixture, mark the spot and locate it on the floor above. Just measure the point from a side wall and a front (or back) wall and transfer those measurements from the ceiling onto the floor above.
  
• Drill a small hole at the marked spot on the floor through to the ceiling below. If you have papered the ceiling, you might also drill up from the ceiling to the floor above for a clean opening. I often drill from the floor down then the ceiling up to make certain I have a clear hole through which to run the ceiling fixture wire. It is not always necessary.
  
• Many light fixtures are equipped with a plug. If that is the case with your fixture, remove the plug now. You can remove the prongs and then just slip the plug off the wire. Or clip the wire to remove the plug. Clipping the wire results in a clear end that makes running the wire through the hole a little easier. Always save the plug. You may find a need for it on another fixture.
  
• With the wire through the hole to the floor above, locate the point at which you will connect the fixture wire to the tapewire. Nail one brad into the copper colored taperun and one brad into the silver colored taperun, generally about 1/4" apart. Do not drive the brad all the way down yet. Allow about 1/16" to 1/8" to stick up. You need this space to wrap the wires from the fixture.
  
• Now its time to ready the fixture wire for installation. If the fixture wire consists of two separate wires you can skip this step. If the two wires on the fixture is joined by insulation you must use a pair of fine (embroidery) scissors and clip the end of the wire between the two wires to split them apart. Gingerly pull the wires apart making certain that the insulation remains around both wires. If you find the wire is exposed, stop, clip off the wire at the point of exposure and repeat the process until you have two insulated separate wires about 1" long.
  
• About 1/2" from the end of each wire, rub the wire between your thumbnail and the pad of your index finger to break the insulation. Carefully pull the end of the insulation from the rest of the wire until you have exposed about 1/4" of copper wire. DO NOT remove the insulation from the tip. Grasp the insulated wire on either side of the exposed wire and twist slightly. This will keep the fine copper wires together and stronger. Repeat the process for the other wire. You are now ready to attach the wires to the brads.
  
• If you removed the fixture wire from the hole, re-tread the wire to its place near the brads. Wrap the exposed copper wire of one side of the fixture wire around one brad. You should be able to wrap it 2 or 3 times for good contact. Repeat with the other brad. Make certain that the copper wires do not touch one another. Once you are satisfied with the connection, turn on your power supply to make certain the ceiling fixure is properly connected and operational.
  
• If the lamp lights solidly (no flickering), you have a good connection. Turn off the power and nail the brads flush to the floor. Test again to make certain you did not loosen the wires. Once installation is complete, cover the brad connections with a piece of Scotch tape. You may also tape down any excess fixture wire at this point.
  

That's it! you've installed a ceiling fixure using what I consider the easiest method.

Welcome to Our Miniature World

My name is Cheryl Ufnowski. My husband Vern and I own and operate Jeepers Dollhouse Miniatures in Nashville (Brown County), Indiana.

Rarely does a day go by that I am not asked questions regarding choosing, building, and decorating a dollhouse. Not only do I have a dollhouse shop, but I also thoroughly enjoy the dollhouse hobby. I find it a wonderfully creative outlet that allows me to exercise my imagination and challenge my creativity. In the world of dollhouses I can be a contractor, interior designer, artist, painter, sculpter, handywoman, or anyone else. The craft is not limited to typical dollhouses, but extends to imaginative containers, display boxes, or simple vignettes. It can take you to faraway places without leaving your home...like a "mini" vacation.

I have always thought that hobbies were a great way to relieve stress; building and decorating dollhouses is no exception. I hope we can share some of the wonders of miniatures!

NOTE:  Since the original post, Jeepers Dollhouse Miniatures has now transitioned to an online only venue.  I hope to continue the same great customer service and remain a constant source of help and inspiration to miniature enthusiasts, young and old!  Be sure to check out our website!