Wallpapering Reminders

Recently, while working with customers who are wallpapering their dollhouses, I was reminded of a couple things I thought I should share with you. The bottom line is "prepare and be prepared."

In the first instance, my customer had decided to install wallpaper on a wall she had previously intended to paint. After a change of heart, she decided she wanted it papered with the same paper as she had on the other two walls. When the paper we ordered arrived we discovered to our dismay that the color (or dye lot) had changed significantly. We double checked the manufacturer's numbers and it was the same paper, but the tones and hues were distinctly different. A word to the wise: when purchasing wallpaper, acquire enough paper to finish an entire room.

In the second instance, a customer had completely finished the entire dollhouse. Walls were papered, carpeting and hardwood floors installed. Since he intended to sell the dollhouse, he was giving it a once over looking for imperfections or problems. As he inspected the house, he discovered smudges and markings on a wall in one room. No amount of erasing or cleaning would remove the damage. Fortunately, in this instance we were able to perfectly match the wallpaper. While this case ended with acceptable results, had he sealed the paper before installing it, he may have avoided the need to remove and re-install the wallpaper. The word of caution here is to take the time to seal the wallpaper (front and back) with a good acrylic spray sealer. The sealer may not eliminate all types of smudges or scratches, but it will help keep down the number of potential problems.

In conclusion, buy enough wallpaper at the same time to finish an entire room. It is also advisable to have at least one extra sheet for potential future repairs. Protect your wallpaper from fading and smudges by applying a good acrylic spray sealer to both sides of the paper before installation.

Carpet (Re)installation

Occasionally I encounter a situation with a customer that I haven't personally faced with my own dollhouses. I was recently asked to make some repairs on a dollhouse that involved removing carpeting and replacing burned out lights. Lamp and bulb replacement is something that I've done many times; however, while some lamps can be somewhat challenging, in the case of this particular house, the lights were not the issue...it was the carpeting!

The dollhouse was originally constructed some 20 years ago and while beautifully done, it was beginning to show its age. The owner who has lost some dexterity in her hands could no longer do some of the repairs necessary and had asked if I would replace the creme colored carpeting on the first floor living room since I was replacing lamps. I agreed to try even though I have never had to replace carpeting in one of my dollhouses. She also explained that at one point someone had replaced the carpet for her, but she was unhappy with the results. Upon inspection of the carpet, I could see why. The carpet did not properly fit the room and was rather lumpy where generous spots of glue had been used to adhere the carpet to the floor.

Initially, I wasn't even sure how I was going to remove the unsightly carpet, but figured we had nothing to lose if it were damaged during the process. I pried up a corner of the carpet and began pulling and pealing carefully so as not to damage the wallpaper or baseboard. Fortunately, MOST of the carpet came up without much problem; however wherever the glue was thickest, the clumps of remaining carpet fibers were firmly attached. I surveyed the remnants wondering what would be the best approach to complete the removal process. I correctly assumed that a water-based glue had been used and knew that water could break down most craft type glues. Starting with a small area near the edge of the dollhouse, I applied a small amount of water with a paint brush to the little patch of carpet fibers. I allowed the water the soak into the area for a few minutes before I began scraping around the edges of the patch with a putty knife. To my relief, the fibers began to lift. This process took considerable time since I worked on one area at a time, first dampening then scraping. With each area, I allowed the water to soften the glue then scraped the fibers away before the spot dried. The areas along the baseboard proved most challenging since I didn't want to damage the baseboard. Fortunately, the glue was not as thick at these points and I carefully continued dampening and scraping until all the fibers were removed. The final step in the removal process was a good sanding to smooth out the floor to avoid any bumps or lumps under the new carpet.

Finally, I was ready to measure and install the new carpeting. Since most rooms in dollhouses (and real homes) are rarely perfectly square, I always make a template of the floor using copy paper, cutting and taping together pieces until I have the exact layout of the room. Once I'm happy with the template I've created, I transfer the pattern to the carpet by tracing it with pencil on the back of the carpet. I always double check to be sure that I've placed the template upside down on the back of the carpet.

Now it occurred to me that I had two installation options: craft glue or Stick'M adhesive. I admit I have never used glue to install carpeting, but this situation has made me think about the options available. I know that once carpet (or flooring sheets) is installed with Stick'M, it is permanently in place. From this experience, I have learned that with patience, carpet that has been glued down with a white (or craft) glue can be removed following the steps I have outlined above.

In conclusion, I would suggest a couple things regarding carpet installed with craft glue. Think ahead when installing the carpet. Consider what you may need to do if you have to remove the carpeting. Apply a smooth thin layer of glue using a paint brush or spread it out with your fingers. Don't allow the glue to form little mounds. Those mounds can look like mountains under your carpet. The thicker the glue, the more difficult it will be to remove the carpet (or fibers). It is better to spread the glue around the outside edge of the dollhouse and not too close to the interior walls. Use the less is better theory. You don't need much glue to adhere the carpet. If you find you need to remove the carpeting at a later date, be frugel with the amount of water you use, be patient when pulling up the carpet, and be careful with the putty knife.

I plan to experiment on removing carpet that has been installed with Stick'M or a non-water-base glue. I suspect the use of heat may be necessary. I'll post my results as soon as I try my experiment.

As always, I would like to hear from you. Do you have any suggestions? Questions?

Dollhouses...a History

While I do not spend a lot of time surfing the Internet, I do research different topics and articles related to dollhouse miniatures. I believe hands-on is the best way to learn any craft, but I find the history of miniatures to be an interesting topic. During a research surfing expedition, I found this delightfully designed site about dollhouse history that I thought I'd share with you. Enjoy!

Wiring with Adapters

Although I prefer installing most ceiling fixtures from the floor above and sconces from the wall behind, there are many times when the use of an adapter is advantageous and preferred. Those situations include:

• difficult or impossible access to the floor above or wall behind;
• use of non-replaceable or difficult to replace light bulbs;
• frequent or long-distance moving;
• desire to change fixtures periodically;

When installing a ceiling fixture after the floor above has been finished (i.e., stained and varnished, tiled, shingled, or carpeted), the use of an adapter will eliminate the need to remove and/or re-install flooring. Similarly, should you want to install a sconce on an exterior wall using an adapter is the easier method. Granted, you can hardwire through your wall finish and wrap the excess wire in the space behind the sconce, but it is often difficult to access the wall. This is particularly true when working in a back opening house and trying to install a sconce on the wall at the front of the house.

While they are becoming less available, there are still a variety of fixtures with non-replaceable light bulbs. Once the bulbs burn out, the entire fixture must be replaced. If you must use this type fixture, then you should use an adapter or you will need to remove whatever finish is on the floor above or wall behind when you must replace the burned out fixture. Similarly, some fixtures are equipped with replaceable bulbs that are difficult to remove and re-install. If you plan to install that type fixture in a room deep within the house you may find bulb replacement and re-installation nearly impossible. Use of an adapter will allow you to remove the fixture and change the bulbs more easily.

If your job or career requires frequent moves or if you anticipate that you may be required to move the dollhouse long distances, adapters will provide you the opportunity to remove the fixtures for safe transport. Hardwired fixtures suffer from the bumps and jarring movement of transit; fixtures with adapters can be safely stored and re-installed at the new destination. Even if steps have been made to try to protect the fixtures, some damage may still occur.

Occasionally, dollhouse owners find a fixture that they prefer over a previously installed unit or decide to redecorate a room where the old fixture no-longer fits the decor. Fixtures with adapters can be easily replaced without affecting the room above or to the side.

Keep in mind that most fixtures can be hardwired through wall or ceiling finishes with the excess wires tucked into the canopy or mounting unit of the fixture. In these instances, you are required to shorten the wire so it can be accommodated by the canopy or mounting unit. This application can be difficult when working in tight spaces with the shortened wires.

On the down-side, adapters require attachment to the light fixture. Be prepared to work with the fine wires and small screws and jeweler screwdrivers. If your dexterity or vision is compromised, you may find this a very challenging undertaking. Secondly, adapters do not work with all types of fixtures. If you are planning to install a particular fixture using adapters make certain they are compatible before cutting fixture wires. I'll address selecting and attaching adapters in another post.