Ceiling Fixture Installation

Today's question involved installing a ceiling fixture in a dollhouse living room. Ask any miniaturist how and you'll probably get a different answer from each one. I will even give you a different suggestion depending on the house, room location in the house, degree of finish (or preferred finish), etc. I generally adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle. Keeping it simple is usually the best method. I also prefer to use tapewire. Loved by some (including me) despised by others. Another discussion another day.

Generally speaking, I prefer to install ceiling fixtures through the ceiling to the floor above. I know, that doesn't always work on the top floor, but that isn't the issue today. We'll save that discussion for another time. Assuming the room in question is on a level (first, second, or third floor) with an unfinished floor above, I suggest the following:

• Plan your wiring layout before you do any interior finishing. This is critical, unless you don't mind tearing up carpeting or re-installing your wood floors. Install the tapewire throughout the house.
  
• Make certain that the tapewire across the floor is within reach of the point at which you will install the ceiling fixture. You do not necessarily want the tapewire to run right over the point where the ceiling fixture will be installed. I normally run the tapewire across the floor several inches from the center of the room. Wires from ceiling fixtures are generally about 8" long, but leave enough room for error. Better to have excess wire than a shortage. The excess wire can be taped down. If you cut the fixture wire too short then have problems removing the insulation, you run the risk of not having enough wire to reach the tapewire. The delicate wire can break and you might need to recut the wire several times until you are successful. Additionally, it is easier to work with longer lengths of wire.
  
• Turn off any power to the dollhouse.
  
• I prefer to apply ceiling/wallpaper to my ceilings. Although many people are perfectly content with painting their ceilings, I like the look of ceiling papers, particularly the slightly textured type that resembles plaster or "popcorn" finishes. Once the paper has been installed and is completely dry, you are ready for the next step.
  
• Determine exactly where you would like to position the ceiling fixture.
  
• Once you have determined the point for placement of the fixture, mark the spot and locate it on the floor above. Just measure the point from a side wall and a front (or back) wall and transfer those measurements from the ceiling onto the floor above.
  
• Drill a small hole at the marked spot on the floor through to the ceiling below. If you have papered the ceiling, you might also drill up from the ceiling to the floor above for a clean opening. I often drill from the floor down then the ceiling up to make certain I have a clear hole through which to run the ceiling fixture wire. It is not always necessary.
  
• Many light fixtures are equipped with a plug. If that is the case with your fixture, remove the plug now. You can remove the prongs and then just slip the plug off the wire. Or clip the wire to remove the plug. Clipping the wire results in a clear end that makes running the wire through the hole a little easier. Always save the plug. You may find a need for it on another fixture.
  
• With the wire through the hole to the floor above, locate the point at which you will connect the fixture wire to the tapewire. Nail one brad into the copper colored taperun and one brad into the silver colored taperun, generally about 1/4" apart. Do not drive the brad all the way down yet. Allow about 1/16" to 1/8" to stick up. You need this space to wrap the wires from the fixture.
  
• Now its time to ready the fixture wire for installation. If the fixture wire consists of two separate wires you can skip this step. If the two wires on the fixture is joined by insulation you must use a pair of fine (embroidery) scissors and clip the end of the wire between the two wires to split them apart. Gingerly pull the wires apart making certain that the insulation remains around both wires. If you find the wire is exposed, stop, clip off the wire at the point of exposure and repeat the process until you have two insulated separate wires about 1" long.
  
• About 1/2" from the end of each wire, rub the wire between your thumbnail and the pad of your index finger to break the insulation. Carefully pull the end of the insulation from the rest of the wire until you have exposed about 1/4" of copper wire. DO NOT remove the insulation from the tip. Grasp the insulated wire on either side of the exposed wire and twist slightly. This will keep the fine copper wires together and stronger. Repeat the process for the other wire. You are now ready to attach the wires to the brads.
  
• If you removed the fixture wire from the hole, re-tread the wire to its place near the brads. Wrap the exposed copper wire of one side of the fixture wire around one brad. You should be able to wrap it 2 or 3 times for good contact. Repeat with the other brad. Make certain that the copper wires do not touch one another. Once you are satisfied with the connection, turn on your power supply to make certain the ceiling fixure is properly connected and operational.
  
• If the lamp lights solidly (no flickering), you have a good connection. Turn off the power and nail the brads flush to the floor. Test again to make certain you did not loosen the wires. Once installation is complete, cover the brad connections with a piece of Scotch tape. You may also tape down any excess fixture wire at this point.
  

That's it! you've installed a ceiling fixure using what I consider the easiest method.